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The northern-most portion of the Carpathian Mountains lies in Northern Slovakia and this section is referred to as the Tatra Mountains in Slovakia and southern Poland. We rode through this area in July, 2003 and found them to be quite beautiful. Most of the roads are on the lower portions of the mountains as the higher peaks are part of National Parks. The photo at left was taken from Strbske Pleso, a favorite starting point for local hikers. The mountains are quite striking when you can see them, but unfortunately you don’t get much of a view of them from the roads. But we felt lucky to have ejoyed them here as the next day when we could see them from the east, they were almost completely covered with clouds.
Along the base of these peaks are numerous resorts, all catering to those who enjoy the fresh mountain air and hiking in these beautiful mountains. To the east of the mountains there are numerous spa towns full of hot thermal and mineral baths.
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On the rolling hills below, there are several small historic towns worth a visit. We made the journey to Levoca, about 30 km east. This town is completely encircled by walled fortifications. Inside, the main square is filled with Renaissance buildings. In the 13th century the king of Hungary invited Saxon Germans to colonise this eastern edge of his kingdon, as protection against Tatar incursions. The town remains essentially as it was originally set out, with no modern development to alter the layout.
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In the very center of the main square is the town hall, flanked by 2 churches. At right is the town hall, where a brass quintet was playing on the first floor when we we there. Beside the town hall is the Cage of Shame where prisoners were once exhibited (left).To the south is the Evangelical church (above, right), built in the Empire style in 1837. Inside, it is host to an antique organ from 1697 (unfortunately, no longer working).
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To the north of the Town Hall is the 15th century St. James Church which contains a huge Gothic high altar (1517) by Master Pavol of Lecova. It is the largest and finest altars of its kind in Europe. The brochure form the church claims it is the tallest altar in the world. Either way, it is a glorious work of art that our readers will have to come and see for themselves as they don’t allow photos to be taken inside.
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All around the square, the wealthy merchants of the town built their homes which we are sure were gorgeous in their day (above, right). Although many need a bit of restoration, the visitor can easily see that they were well constructed and beautifully decorated. The one which we would most like to see restored is a intricately painted house with much surface detail (left). Hopefully some day the owner will have the means with which to restore it to its former granduer.
The one thing we found unusual about this town is that although there were quite a few tourists there, it did not have the appearance of a tourist town. However, because of this, it almost felt like we were invading someone’s home (which we guess we were, in a way). The local kids quickly took note of the bikes and we had quite an audience as we secured the bikes then returned later to dress for riding.
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A couple of blocks outside the main square we found a lovely old school that has been maintained and still serves as the secondary school today. Next to it is the new Minorite Church (1750) on the corner which has the loveliest black and gold altar and decorations (below right).
Just outside of town, high on the neighboring hill, sits the large neo-Gothic Church of Marianska hora (above, left), where the largest Catholic pilgrimage in Slovakia is held in early July. From the town, it looks quite majestic sitting alone on the hill. |
